The blade length is 2", pick to edge length is 7", overall length is 10.75". The origins of this design is as a 'sentry-removal tool', that has multiple uses, i.e ice axe / wood-lore (camp tasks) / close combat. The pick design is from an ice axe, i.e. so it can be used in that manner. In .1875" thickness it is quite light and works considerably well in all three tasking's described above.
An issue we (i.e. other SF guys & myself) had in the early days of this design, was it would pinch on the handle when splitting larger logs. So the upper set of scales were drawn in to assist with grip in close-in work, but also to prevent pinching when splitting. Surprisingly they do this very well. Essentially acting as a wedge.
I inset the scales into the handle, because if you don't, batoning will bend the pins and or screws that hold on your scales. Even if epoxied on, batoning knocks the scales out of position. I've tried brass, steel, epoxy, nothing worked accept insetting the scales into the handle. As you know on a traditional hawk there is the eye for the handle so it is its own wedge if you will.
This run of Tombat's will be .360" thick to be better at wood-lore/camp tasks/splitting.
An issue we (i.e. other SF guys & myself) had in the early days of this design, was it would pinch on the handle when splitting larger logs. So the upper set of scales were drawn in to assist with grip in close-in work, but also to prevent pinching when splitting. Surprisingly they do this very well. Essentially acting as a wedge.
I inset the scales into the handle, because if you don't, batoning will bend the pins and or screws that hold on your scales. Even if epoxied on, batoning knocks the scales out of position. I've tried brass, steel, epoxy, nothing worked accept insetting the scales into the handle. As you know on a traditional hawk there is the eye for the handle so it is its own wedge if you will.
This run of Tombat's will be .360" thick to be better at wood-lore/camp tasks/splitting.